Confucius Says

July 4th, 2009

Near Tai’an and Mt. Taishan is Qu’fu, where Confucius made his home. (”near” meaning about an hour’s drive away) I know y’all know who Confucius was, so I won’t bother explaining that. We visited Confucius’ house and temple, and also visited the grounds where he and his family are all buried. Tai’an is smaller than Xi’an or Beijing, but it still feels like a city. Qu’fu is even smaller than Tai’an, however, and it definitely had a grungier, more rural feel to it.

People like us are also quite a spectacle in Tai’an and Qu’fu, and I’ve caught more than a few people snapping pictures of people in my group since we’ve been here. We have a little redhead kid and his parents traveling with us, and the people here especially want to take pictures with him… you’d think the kid was a leprechaun or something. ;) People in town have been really friendly, though, and they seem genuinely excited to have us visiting them.


Meat! It’s what’s for dinner.


People passing through the old city wall, to the inner part of Qu’fu where Confucius lived.


This sign asks that everyone dismount their horses (or cars) before entering the grounds of Confucius’ home.


The structures at Confucius’ home definitely have an older and more weathered look to them than the monuments in Beijing.


One of the interior rooms at Confucius’ home.


Mister Ma, our guide for our stay in the Tai’an area, explains some of the finer points of Confucius’ home.


These animal sculptures are built into the roof, as protection for the house.


Praying at the altar in Confucius’ temple.


Believers often come to Confucius’ temple to pray that their children do well on their college entrance exams, and there are thousands of these tags left behind at the temple. The one I found written in Spanish (?) is pretty curious.


A lotus flower, in one of the awesome gardens on the grounds. Can’t say I often see these in an up-close, natural state. :)


Men making gravestones, presumably for descendants of Confucius’ family.


Confucius’ grave. His ashes are buried in the mound of grass behind the stone marker.


This woman came begging for money. When we tried to tell her we didn’t have any, she pointed to her ear, so we think she might’ve been deaf.

Mountain Climber

July 4th, 2009

Holy crap, today was climbing Taishan, and it was NUTS. I took a ton of pictures, too, but they’ll come later. I’m pooped as hell right now, and video sums up this experience more quickly than my textual blathering. :) These clips are thanks to my Dad, for giving me a super-easy-to-carry FlipVideo camera a few Christmases ago. I highly recommend getting one for yourself if you like to mess around with video, and aren’t too busy salivating over HD.

I probably sound exhausted and half-delirious in these… because I WAS exhausted and half-delirious. ;) It was a tough hike, and it wasn’t the idyllic, peaceful setting I expected it to be. There were probably hundreds, maybe even thousands, of people climbing this beast. I made better time than a lot of them, though!

I’m about 3/4ths of the way up in this one:

And here I am reaching the top:

Warrior Life

July 4th, 2009

Goodbye to Beijing meant Hello to Xi’an, a city to the southeast of Beijing. I begrudgingly roused myself at 5am to catch an early, early flight to Xi’an, and we spent a whirlwind 36 hours there before returning to Beijing and braving the dreaded train station.

This was just the first part of our second day there. Our first stop was at a facility where they make replicas of Terra Cotta Warriors, and also some really gorgeous lacquered furniture and keepsakes that are inlaid with jade. We got to see some different phases of the process, so that was pretty cool.

The mold gets the basic details in place for the larger replicas, but then a craftsman adds more detail and texture to it after it’s molded.

Every good warrior needs a horse… so here’s the mold for one. :)

This woman is molding a smaller replica of the warrior.

Some of the finished product.

Oh yeah, they also weave rugs at this place, too.

INTERMISSION!:

Barbara made a silly comment during the first couple days in Beijing, about how she hadn’t seen a dog since we got to China, except for one that looked like it was about to be dinner. So, I’ve been taking pictures of dogs every time I see one here. ;)

See? Just two friends saying howdy. D’aaawww. ;)

Anyhoo, since the Terra Cotta Warriors are local to Xi’an, it’d be pretty silly to see replicas being made, without actually seeing the real thing. ;) So, we went to the site where the Warriors were first discovered. They were first found in the 1970s, by a farmer who happened to find them while digging ditches, and now it’s grown into a huge dig site with three separate pits.

This is just Pit 1! This pit showed the largest quantity of intact Warriors.

The dig site stretches out quite a ways, and all of these warriors used to have a wood-and-earthen roof over them.

If I heard correctly, Pits 1 and 2 are sometimes still worked on by archaeologists.

This guy was on display in the building that housed Pit 2. The rank of the warriors is, apparently, easiest to differentiate by their hair: warriors have one knot, mid-ranking officers have a flat-topped hairstyle, and generals have two knots.

Horses and chariots were found at the dig site, too. There were, obviously, ones made with terra cotta, but these guys were made of bronze.

Riding the Rails

July 3rd, 2009

Imagine you are exhausted from a day of sightseeing in Xi’an, followed by a whirlwind run through the airport, with a ridiculously heavy bag of clothes and two other shoulder bags on your back, and a 2-hour flight back to Beijing.

Then, imagine you are dropped off at the Beijing Railway Station, with all of the aforementioned gear on your bag, and a teeming mass of people flooding through the entrance in front of you. And then you’re told that this is a popular area for pickpockets. Oh, and in one of your shoulder bags is your prized laptop, and in the other is over $1000 worth of camera gear.

This is why I have no pictures of the railway station: I was too busy trying to keep sane, keep strangers away from me, and keep hold of my belongings. I was getting eyeballed by shifty-looking people left and right, and one guy had the gonads to come over and  stand in the middle of our group, less than 2 feet away from me, looking up at the ceiling to try and distract one of us. The only thing I could take solace in was being surrounded by my travelmates, and the fact that my training and the European half of my heritage have made me considerably larger and stronger than this small, withered-looking Chinese man.

Once we started moving towards the platform, I could barely keep pace with my group, because of all the people pushing and shoving, and I was getting genuinely freaked out. It was the closest thing to an uncontrolled mob situation I’ve ever experienced in my life, and this was at 11pm at night! Apparently, the station is like that pretty much 24-7.

I did get to ride in a sleeper car on the train from Beijing to Tai’an, though. It wasn’t the cleanest of trains, but it was good enough, and I definitely want to take a long train ride when I get back to the States, sometime.

I’m wiped out, so I’ll be chilling my brain out before we hike Taishan tomorrow. Yipe!

Gone Shopping

July 1st, 2009

Shopping on the streets is one of the signs that tradition is still alive and well in Beijing. Open air markets can be found next to high-rise hotels, and side streets and alleyways are littered with small shops selling crafts and antiques. And, of course, there’s the process of haggling that’s become tradition in street shops, and that also gets pretty entertaining.

This is a taste of Liulichang, where all kinds of artwork, calligraphy brushes, and other handcrafts are lurking in the little shops.

One of the ladies I’m traveling with has been to China before, so we stopped in a shop where she’d been before, and they remembered her. :) Another guy in our group asked her to get him a painting of a rooster, but they didn’t have the one he liked on hand, and we were leaving Beijing early the next day, so we couldn’t come back and pick it up. Then, the painter basically said, “oh, I’ll just do one right now, it’ll take 15 minutes,” and then whipped out his brush and started painting!

This fan is hand-painted :)

This was at a tea shop one of my travelmates had found the previous day. She served us a lot of *very* good tea for free, and was freely giving out discounts once she found out who had told us about her shop. I still managed to haggle her down a bit farther on a tea set, though ;)

Forbidden City

July 1st, 2009

I have to head out for dinner with the group soon, so here’s another less-talky-more-looky photo post. :) These are from our jaunt to the Forbidden City… after our morning of training that day, we spent hours walking through the place, in blistering heat, and we were pretty exhausted, but it was worth the time. The exhibits in this place mainly focused on the last Emperor, and his interest in modern things (well, modern for his time, anyway), and blending Western and Eastern cultures.

Once again, you’ll have to pardon the hazy sky, and my lack of a wide-angle lens on the more landscape-ish shots. (had to leave the mid-range zoom at home for Ben, so the widest I have here is my 50mm f/1.8) Blown-out skies drive me bonkers, but there wasn’t much way around it. Just trust me when I say that the views are *nuts* in person.

The details in the rooftops and eaves are just crazy.

See how well you sleep with this guy on your ceiling. ;)

Yep, Chinese doorknobs are cooler than yours.

Fine China in China! (hurhurhur)

This carving ran all the way up the stairs, on the building shown in the previous shot.

Yes, that’s a cleaning lady. The grounds were very tidy.

The police were out in force to make sure we didn’t use this tunnel to exit. I’m assuming it’s because there were three tunnels, and the one in the center was intended only for use by the Emperor. Old habits die hard, apparently. ;)

Goodbye Shichahai

June 30th, 2009

Today was our last day of training at Shichahai, which makes me an unhappy monkey. We’re repacking and consolidating our things tonight, because we’re leaving Beijing early tomorrow, and heading to Xi’an, and then we’ll be off to Tai’an a couple days after that. It *is* cool that we’ll get to see other parts of China outside of Beijing, but we could’ve easily spent the whole trip in Beijing and had plenty of things to do… and more awesome training, of course ;)

I’m very, very glad that I did this now, at this point in my life, because I don’t know that I’d have held up as well, even one year from now. I had a fairly normal run of soreness on Thursday and Friday, but on Saturday’s practice, my hip flexors were basically dead. I couldn’t go as low in drop stances, my crescent kicks weren’t as fast, and cartwheels… eugh. Trying to do too much on any hip-opening moves still hurts like a mother. It’s a rough reminder that, athletically speaking, I’m not exactly the springiest of spring chickens.

It’s definitely motivation to train harder at home, though. I’ve surprised myself with how much I’ve been able to keep improving, even as I approach the dreaded 3-0, and I guess I still believe that I haven’t reached my peak yet.  And, just yesterday, I saw Zhao Chang Jun doing a crazy squat drill in the weight room, and then I was informed that he’s 31 years old and still competing among the best that Beijing wushu has to offer. Sure, he did have a 15-year-or-so head-start on me with the training, but it’s a glimmer of hope, nonetheless. ;)

This was most definitely worth it, pain and all. It’s been educational, and it was the extra kick in the ass I needed to keep going. I hope I can come back here later (not *too* much later), and for longer, when I’m both wiser and stronger.


Me on China carpet! (thanks go to Goo for taking the shots of me)


After doing southern fist for all of our other practices, I surprised our teacher by doing my old intermediate long fist form on my last day. Combo X FTW ;)


Goo is faster than a speeding camera!


Our teacher for our practices at Shichahai explaining a move. (even though it looks like she’s going for a nose pick)


One of the other students from my school works on eagle claw.


Taken as I passed through the doors of the Shichahai lobby for the last time. :(

Summer Palace

June 29th, 2009

I’m rewinding a bit with some random snaps from the Summer Palace, on one of the first hazy days of my stay here. If I’d had my way, I’d have probably gone there later in the day, when the sun wasn’t so high, but the first few days were long and tighly-scheduled. Lunch and dinner were also scheduled, and with all the training and walking around, I didn’t want to risk missing a meal… really, do I ever want to risk that? ;) Heh.

Anyhoo, we kind of had to hurry through the walk through the Summer Palace, but I got what I could. Less blabbing and more photos on this one, since I’m hoping to wake up early tomorrow morning, and I’m still pretty beat after clubbing two nights ago.

A hybrid creature at the entrance of the Summer Palace (deer horns, lion’s face, ox’s hooves, and a scaly body)

These types of rocks are in a lot of the palace-type landmarks in Beijing.

The grounds of the Summer Palace include an artificial lake, and it actually helps keep the area cooler on hot days.

This was one of several guys who was just chilling by the artificial lake, painting with a calligraphy brush.

 

We had a tour guide who explained to us that the characters on the right of these signs are Mongolian, in honor of the Empress Cixi and her heritage.

The aforementioned tour guide, who’s smart enough to find us shady places to stand in while she tells us about the place. :)

A curious cat who was roaming the grounds.
 

Gracias to Barbara (one of the taiji students on this trip) for catching my dorky pose du jour. ;)

Things I Take For Granted

June 28th, 2009

After being in Beijing for even a short while, you realize there are more than a few things that you take for granted in the U.S. These are just two of them. (note: if you don’t want to hear me complain about toilets, you’ll want to skip this)

Potable water. We were all informed that you shouldn’t ingest any of the water straight from the tap in China; you have to boil it first. We get two (small) bottles of mineral water every day from the hotel, but it’s not nearly enough to get you through the hot days. I currently live and die by that water kettle, and considering how much water I usually drink (read: a lot), I don’t think I’ve felt hydrated for a single day since we got here.

It’s not terribly hard to find bottled water to buy, though. Pretty much everywhere you go, and especially at tourism areas, there are people selling water, and selling it very aggressively, at that. (that’s a ramble for another post)

The other one? Toilets. We have things pretty cushy with our little Western-style toilets. We get to sit down and relax while we relieve ourselves, wipe clean when we’re done (and maybe have a splash from a bidet if we’re really lucky), and, barring the occasional unwashed gas station bathroom, it’s usually a fairly clean and odor-free environment. Well, aside from the odors we produce while we’re going.

On that note, I’d like you to meet my new nemesis: the Asian-style toilet, otherwise known as The Squat Pot.

I’d read about these toilets before, thanks mainly to my years-long interest in Japan–#2 on my list of places to go, by the way–but it hadn’t occurred to me that I might encounter one here in China, too. Turns out that’s all they have here: the only western-style toilet I’m guaranteed access to is the one in my hotel room, and I’m only there at the beginning and end of the day.

A lot of the toilets I’ve encountered so far look grodier than the average Western toilet. The first time I took a leak at Shichahai, there was no toilet paper anywhere! There were paper holders, but no paper in them. Turns out, this is the case in a lot of places. I guess wiping your ass isn’t a priority around these parts?

Also, these toilets don’t have the nice barrier of water between you and what lies beneath, so they can be a lot stinkier. I had to use one yesterday, and when I crouched down, the most ungodly stench attacked my nostrils. That thing smelled like death. It was worse than any port-a-potty or outhouse I’ve ever used.

Beyond that, I have to admit that the real annoyance is the whole squatting thing. It doesn’t exactly come naturally to me, and I still don’t quite understand how I can position myself in such a way that I can urinate without doing so all over my pants. I’ve been bracing myself in position with my hands, and going verrrry slowly. There’s probably some secret technique that my body doesn’t quite understand, but at least I haven’t had to do a number-2 on a squat pot yet. I guess it’s like Goo said the other day: everything in China is training, even taking a dump. ;)

Hitting the (Great) Wall

June 26th, 2009

Today was Day 3 of training, which meant: conditioning! It wasn’t as terrifying as I feared, but it was still pretty rough, after all of the other stuff we’ve been doing, and my abs hurt like a mother. I’m really, really glad I’ve been doing so much circuit training over the past 2 months, because I wouldn’t have made it through otherwise.

It feels like I push myself harder and harder each day of practice, which is a pretty awesome feeling. But, granted, my muscles have been stiff, so I’m not sure if I *am* pushing harder, or if it just feels like it because I’m so sore. ;) Still, if I could train like this all the time, I wouldn’t hesitate to do it. It makes me sad to realize that, by the time my body adapts to all of this training, it’ll be time for us to leave. 

Anyhoo, today was the “mandatory” trip to The Great Wall, because, yeah, it’s one of those things that you have to see if you come to China. As much as those of us in the wushu group complained about our sore, tired muscles, we all knew that we had to hike up the Wall. There was a tram you could ride for 60 yuan, but that’s simply not the same as making the journey up.

Can I just say: HOLY CRAP AMAZING views. I’m punching myself in the head repeatedly for not bringing a wide-angle lens, but even that wouldn’t completely capture what I saw. The mountain winds were gusting, there was green all around, with hazy skies, and sections of Great Wall winding into the hills as far as I could see.

The carvings in the bricks of the Great Wall were something I found  bit mysterious… I suspect the mystery is greater for me, because I can’t read Chinese, but I have to wonder who wrote these words when, and what they were saying.

And, there’s no shortage of photo ops to pose for on the Wall, so I had to get one of the ladies in my group to take my victory picture, once I reached the top. Climbing all those steps certainly felt like a feat worth celebrating! Captain Morgan wishes he were this awesome. ;)